I would never           surf.     I almost drowned when I was five.   I remember the feeling of being pinned underwater,   unable to surface,   my lungs feeling on fire.     I learned to swim -- sort of --   but my face never goes in the water.     I take showers.     I'd never try a flotation tank.     And the idea of wiping out,   of having a huge wave crash down   on my body. . . .      well, that's too much to handle.     I can watch, however,   as someone else dances with waves.   I just know it'll never be me.   Not in this lifetime.