I would never surf. I almost drowned when I was five. I remember the feeling of being pinned underwater, unable to surface, my lungs feeling on fire. I learned to swim -- sort of -- but my face never goes in the water. I take showers. I'd never try a flotation tank. And the idea of wiping out, of having a huge wave crash down on my body. . . . well, that's too much to handle. I can watch, however, as someone else dances with waves. I just know it'll never be me. Not in this lifetime.